How many of you spend more than 10 minutes doing a winged eyeliner for it to turn out lopsided? Unless you’re Alexa Chung, mastering the winged eyeliner is considered a life accomplishment. It’s only lately that I have been able to do an acceptable job at it after several attempts and product trials (just don’t look closely).
Maybe because I’m Asian that people assume that I have a natural gift at eyeliner flicking and have been getting a few requests to do a winged eyeliner tutorial, particularly for different eye shapes.
Eyeliner makeup tutorial is a territory that belongs to makeup professionals; I wouldn’t even dare cross it. With that in mind, I rallied my girl friends to model for me and called in the help of my makeup artist for my fashion film, Mika Lombard to teach us how to achieve the perfect winged eyeliner look based on your eye shape. Mika happens to be a makeup guru and an instructor so take notes because her advice is simple nut genius.
Having the right kind of tools and using the right kind of products is essential to perfecting a winged eyeliner look. Mika recommends using a fine angled brush for precision. It’s good to start with a thin line and work your way up rather than the opposite. MAC 208, Inglot 23t, and Sigma 365 are great brushes to use.
Next is finding the right product that works for you. All makeup artists I know use a gel liner for its buildable and long-wear effect. You can never go wrong with MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack. One product that was new to me is the cake eyeliner, an old school product used in theatre makeup. It has a powder texture but when dabbed with a bit of water, turns into thick eyeliner consistency. It’s easy to use and glides easily.
BASIC STEPS TO PERFECTING THE WINGED EYELINER
ONE: Start with a tight line in the middle of the lash line and continue at the outer edge of the lash line.
TWO: Thin out eyeliner around the corner of the eyes.
THREE: Using the end of your eyeliner brush as a guideline, place the stick on the outer corner of the lower lash line and tilt the brush in 45-degree angle towards the tail of your brow. This is your guideline when marking the flick.
FOUR: Draw the flick following the guideline. The length of the flick totally depends on how dramatic you’d want to the look to be.
FIVE: Starting from the outer flick, draw a line back down to the lower lash line and fill in any empty space.
ADJUSTMENTS BASED ON YOUR EYE SHAPE
Following the same steps as above, the only adjustment is drawing a thin line to avoid it smudging due to small lids.
Hooded eyes suffer from the winged flick folding and cracking because of the droopy lids. To avoid this, draw a flick slightly more slanted than 45degree angle outside the lid.
Deep-set eyes shape a great for winged eyeliner. The makeup artist recommends starting the line slightly in the middle of the lash line instead of going all the way to the inner corner of the eyes.
Downturned eyes have a similar feature to an almond eye shape but the only difference is the lid goes downward towards the outer corner of the eye. Follow the basic steps to drawing a winged eyeliner but instead of connecting the outer flick back to the middle lash line (like a triangle), connect the flick to the outer corner of the lash line creating that a ‘nike check’ shape.
Winged eyeliner is perfect for an almond eye shape as seen on my friend here. No adjustments necessary. Lucky!
OTHER USEFUL TIPS:
If you made a mistake, wait until the eyeliner is dry then use a dry q-tip and roll it over the smudge area.
If you have trouble getting a straight line, try resting your elbow on a table for stability.
To remove gel eyeliner or any waterproof makeup, use baby oil or even olive oil. Mika’s favorite eye makeup remover is from Sephora.
Voila! Save, pin, share these images and use it as a guideline when doing your winged eyeliner.